Flagstaff Hardside Campers Standard Features

Flagstaff Hardside is one of the most versatile campers on the market today

Flagstaff Hardside is one of the most versatile campers on the market today

The Flagstaff Hardside trailer is unique in it’s design in that it is pretty much fully loaded straight from the factory. When people come into the Dealership and start looking at these, they always ask what is optional on it, and are pretty shocked to find out that there really aren’t too many add-ons, this is pretty much stock. Things like the standard electric heat pump, stereo, microwave… well, if you want to read the whole list, then here you go:

Standard Features of the Flagstaff Hardside Trailer:

  • Cherry Interior With “Tile-Look” Linoleum
  • Two Tone Fabric Seating
  • Residential Style Kitchen Faucet
  • Stainless Steel Look Appliances and Sink
  • Double Pan Sink With High Rise Faucet ( T19SCHW and T21QBHW Only)
  • Electric Water Pump
  • Hot Water Package (Incl. Water Filter, Outside Shower, Six Gallon DSI Water Heater
  • Anti-Freeze Inlet to Bypass Fresh Water Tanks When Winterizing
  • Glass Stove Top Cover
  • Microwave
  • 3-Way Fridge
  • Residential Style Raised Panel Doors
  • Wood Drawers with Full Extension Drawer Glides
  • Large Clothes Bar
  • USB Charging Ports
  • AM/FM Stereo with CD Player
  • TV Outlet with Cable and Satellite Hookup
  • 30 amp Detachable power cord with Storage Bag
  • 35 Amp Converter with Battery Charger
  • 12v Safety Breaker
  • 10k Cool Cat Heat Pump
  • Floor Lights
  • Ceiling LED lights
  • LP Leak/Carbon Monoxide Detector
  • Privacy Curtains
  • Independent Torsion Axle
  • Easy Lube Axles
  • Spare Tire, Cover and Mount
  • 13” or Higher Radial Tire Size
  • Electric Brakes
  • Sliding Storage Tray on Front Storage Models
  • Equal-I-Zer Hitch Mounting Provision
  • Battery Box and Wiring Kit
  • Solar Panel Prep
  • Dual 20# LP tanks with Automatic Changeover Regulator
  • Diamond Plated Lower Front Cap
  • O/S Grill
  • O/S Speakers for Stereo
  • Door Step
  • Vented Entrance Door with Screen
  • Folding Grab Handle
  • Vacuum Bonded Fiberglass Sidewalls
  • Vacuum Bonded Roof with Metal Interior Panel
  • Large Roof Skylight
  • Two Front Windows
  • Large Opening Picture Window
  • One-Piece Undercoated Structure Wood Floors
  • Powder Coated Tubular Steel Frame
  • Stabilizer Jacks
  • 20 Gallon Fresh Water Tank
  • 2000# Tongue Jack
  • 7-Way Pigtail Plug

The History of Forest River

In July 2013, Forest River became the largest RV manufacturing company in the US, and therefore the whole wide world.  This is not a small accomplishment, and congratulations to them.  It takes a lot of help from the individual brands like Flagstaff and Sabre; as well as help from their dealers, such as Westland Camping Center; and of course you guys, the consumer, the real reason they do this in the first place.

To commemorate the occasion, I thought I would post this history of the Forest River Company.  Not earth shattering information, but still very interesting stuff.



Westland Camping Visits The Forest River PDI Facility

Forest River PDI Facility

Forest River PDI Facility

Recently, I had the Opportunity to tour the Forest River PDI Facility in Goshen Indiana.  And I came away impressed, and more confident than ever that Forest River is committed to the highest quality in the RV industry.

What is PDI?

PDI stands for Pre-Delivery Inspection.  PDI can stand for several different things: When the Trailer factory does its final inspection before sending the unit to the dealership, when the dealership checks it in from the manufacturer, and when the customer comes in and does a “walk-through” of the unit are all examples of PDI.

Forest River’s PDI facility is charged to inspect units right off the assembly line from around 50 different Forest River manufacturing facilities in northern Indiana and Southern Michigan.  They are independent of any particular FR company, reporting directly to FR’s corporate office.  They inspect and test all types of RV’s, from the smallest pop up campers, to the largest motor homes.  They are all subjected to the same rigorous testing procedures, to make sure each plant and each product is right by the time it reaches the RV customer.


What do they do?

The Rain Room

The Rain Room

Each unit that comes into the Facility first gets put into the Rain Room.  There, an inspector sits inside the unit while the trailer is sprayed with water from all directions for 15-20 minutes while the inspector checks all of the windows, doors, roof seals, skylights, and vents to make sure there is no visible water leakage, because everyone knows, water is the enemy.

Then the trailer is pulled out and put in the line where another inspector starts checking everything functional about the trailer, such as drawers, cabinets, appliances, electrical systems, LP systems, etc.  Everything on the unit is checked to make sure that it is both working, and looks good, noting any scratches and nicks in walls, curtains that may have stains on them, wall borders that aren’t straight, everything.

From there, it moves up the line and enters the plumbing section, where everything is tested from the freshwater system to the gray and black water tanks (with water… not… ewww).

Bubble Testing

Bubble Testing

Then the outside of the unit is inspected, and after all seals and exterior surfaces are checked, they spray the exterior with a soapy water solution while a machine creates positive pressure inside the unit.  The soapy water creates bubbles anywhere that air is escaping.  If air can get out, theoretically water can get in, and well, water is the enemy.



What Happens Next?

Problems Are Marked Clearly

Problems Are Marked Clearly

As the inspectors find problems or issues, they mark the issue with colored tape, and then write the problem on the tape.  After the inspection is complete, the inspectors write a detailed report about problems, and observations about the functionality of any design.  These reports go back to the factory and to FR’s corporate office, and the factory is graded on these scores.  The factory managers seem to be quite competitive with each other about their scores, so they take these reports very seriously.  These reports can uncover design problems, personnel problems on the line, and issues with products they buy to install in their units (water heaters, stoves, lights, whatever).

How do they pick the units from the factories?

The units sent to the PDI facility can come from a couple of different avenues.  Every day, each factory picks out a random unit off the line to send, or sometimes the PDI facility notices that they have seen none of a certain model in a while, so they request one.   Factories are always coming out with new models, and after they design it, they send the prototypes over to be inspected to try to find any issues they can iron out before moving on to full production.  Also, when a Factory does any major remodels of their plants, or build a new plant, they send all of the units that come out of the factory until they are assured that production is coming out high quality.

 What does this mean?

The Forest River PDI facility is something they are very proud of.  And they should.  It is a great way to keep all of their brands performing at the peak of their abilities, and identifying both the trailers, and personnel that aren’t doing their jobs.  The end result is a higher standard of quality and accountability to those making decisions in their respective brands.  This makes for a very high quality RV for the customer.  For more information about the Forest River products that we carry, call us, or email us, or comment here, and we will be happy to talk quality with you!

Flagstaff Classic Superlight Features and Options



Travel Trailer Features

These awsesome features are part of what makes Flagstaff an industry leader in Travel Trailers.  A lot of these are part of what Westland Camping orders for our Stock units!


  • Solid Wood and Raised Panel Doors and Drawers
  • Screwed and Glued Cabinetry
  • Residential Full Extension Metal Drawer Guides in Kitchen
  • Flooring: Carpet and an Engineered Mold
    and Mildew Resistant Floor Covering
  • Floor Ducted Furnace
  • Monitor Panel
  • Battery Disconnect Switch
  • 55 Amp Converter w/ Charger
  • Directional Reading Lights on Sofa Slides
  • MP3 Player Hookup
  • 22” LCD TV Mounted in Bedroom (Select Floorplans)
  • End Table w/ Attached Lamp (Select Floorplans)
  • Designer Valances w/ Lambrequin Arms
  • Aluminum Bed and Dinette Frames
  • 44” Family Style Dinette (Select Floorplans)
  • Free-Standing High Pressure Laminated Table
    w/ Swing Level Leg
  • Free-Standing Table and Chairs (Select Floorplans)
  • Auto Gas/Electric Refrigerator
  • Three Burner High Output Gas Range
  • Tub Surround
  • Bathroom Skylight
  • Water Heater Bypass Kit
  • Decorative Slide-Out Fascia
  • Interior Floor Light by Entrance Door
  • Residential Dome Style Lights Over Sofa and Table
  • Upgraded Recessed Lighting Around Medicine Cabinet
  • LCD TV w/ 5.1 Digital Dolby
    Surround Sound Speaker System
  • Digital AM/FM/DVD w/ “Bluetooth” Technology
  • Drop Down 22″ LCD TV in O/S Kitchen (Select Floorplans)
  • Air Hide-A-Bed Sofa w/ Storage (Select Floorplans)
  • Swivel Chair(s) (Select Floorplans)
  • Day/Night Shades
  • Upgraded 22″ Gas Oven
  • Flush Mount Stone Cast Sinks w/ Lift-Off Kitchen Faucets
  • Residential One-Piece Sink Cover/ Cutting Board
  • Trash Can in Kitchen (Most Floorplans)
  • Six Gallon “Quick Recovery” 110 DSI
    Gas/Electric Water Heater
  • 13,500 BTU Ducted Roof Air
  • Fireplace (Select Floorplans)
  • 12 Volt Power Plug w/ USB Charging Port
  • LED 12 Volt Interior Lighting
  • Microwave
  • Residential Serta Mattress Upgrade
  • Residential Style Porcelain Bowl Foot Flush Toilet


  • Fully Laminated Aluminum Frame (Floor, Sidewall, & Roof)
  • Insulation Factors R-7 Sidewall, R-12 Floor and R-14 Roof
  • Electric Slide-Out
  • Decorative Frame Skirting
  • Outside Shower
  • Outside Antifreeze Station for Convenient Winterizing
  • Molded Bottle Cover
  • Surface Coated Steel I-Beam Frame
  • Stabilizer Jacks
  • Torsion Axle, Rubber-Ryde Suspension
  • Easy Lube Axles
  • Enclosed Holding Tanks
  • Black Water Flush
  • TV Antenna w/ Cable & Satellite Hookup
  • 30” Entrance Door (Most Floorplans)
  • Lighted Entry Step
  • Large Grab Handles
  • Outside Grill Prep w/ LP Hookup and Backer
  • Slam Latch Pass-Thru Storage Doors (Select Floorplans)
  • Two (2) 30 lb. Gas Bottles
  • 15” Tires w/ Triple Step
  • Radius Roof w/ Vaulted Interior Ceilings
  • One-Piece Seamless Roofing Membrane
  • Laminated Fiberglass Sidewalls w/ High Gloss Finish
  • Deluxe TPO High Gloss Front Cap
  • Power Awning w/ Adjustable Rain Dump
  • Windows w/ Tinted Safety Glass
  • Atrium Slide Windows (Select Models)
  • Outside Speakers
  • Aluminum Wheels
  • Spare Tire Carrier & Cover
  • Electronically Controlled Heated Holding Tanks

  • Minimum Carpet available
  • 15,000 BTU Ducted Roof Air
  • CSA
  • Air Hide-A-Bed Sofa w/ Storage (Select Models)
  • Stainless Steel Appliances
  • Raised Refrigerator Panels
  • Countertop Extension (Select Floorplans)
  • Extra Create-a-Breeze fan
  • Rear Ladder (Select Floorplans)
  • Awning Slide Topper
  • Outside Gas Grill and Worktable
  • Power Stabilizer Jacks
  • Hickory and Cherry Interiors (w/ Solid Cherry
    Hand-Rubbed Cabinet Doors)
  • Fireplace (Select Floorplans)
  • LCD Bedroom TV w/ Outside Mounting Bracket
  • La-Z-Boy Leather Recliner Option:
    Available ILO All Units w/ Barrel Chairs
  • 48″ X 84″ Spacious King-U-Style Dinette
  • Free-Standing Table and Chairs
  • Heated Mattress
  • Thermo Pane Window Upgrade
  • Atrium Slide Windows (Super Slides)
  • Power Front Jack
  • Diamond Package
    • Upgraded Decorative Wood Slide-Out Fascia
    • Upgraded Cabinetry Hardware
    • Upgraded Air Hide-A-Bed “Tufted” Sofa
      w/ Storage (Select Floorplans)
    • Deluxe Interior Window Treatment
    • Solid Surface Countertops
      in Kitchen and Living Room
    • Laminated Taupe Color Fiberglass Sidewalls
      w/ High Gloss Finish and Color Keyed Roof
    • Shielded Awning Covers
    • Tinted Bonded Frameless Windows
    • Slam Latches on Most Exterior Storage Doors
  • Platinum Package
    • Upgraded Decorative Wood Slide-Out Fascia
    • Upgraded Cabinetry Hardware
    • Upgraded Air Hide-A-Bed “Tufted” Sofa
      w/ Storage (Select Floorplans)
    • Deluxe Interior Window Treatment
    • Solid Surface Countertops
      in Kitchen and Living Room
    • Tinted Bonded Frameless Windows


  • Carbon Monoxide Detector
  • Water-Pur Filtration System
  • Create-a-Breeze Three Speed
    Fantastic Fan w/ Vent Cover
  • Heated Mattress
  • Convenience Package E
    • 13,500 BTU Ducted Air
    • Microwave
    • Residential Serta Mattress Upgrade
    • Fiberglass Exterior w/ High Gloss Finish
    • Deluxe TPO High Gloss Front Cap
    • Power Awning w/ Adjustable Rain Dump
    • Windows w/ Tinted Safety Glass
    • Outside Speakers
    • Aluminum Wheels
    • Spare Tire Carrier & Cover

How Do I Winterize My Flagstaff Travel Trailer?

This is a basic chart, not specific to Flagstaff, but pretty good.

This is a basic chart, not specific to Flagstaff, but pretty good.

Flagstaff Travel Trailers are designed for maximum ease of use for their owners.  They include all sorts of features that make life a little easier, and add more every year.


Some of the most useful features have to do with winterizing.  Since it is getting to be time, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to highlight how to use these features to winterize your Flagstaff Travel Trailer.

Step One: Drain The Water

Walk around the trailer, and make sure your fresh water, black water and gray water tanks are empty.  Drain your water heater if it isn’t already drained.  Look under the trailer for the Low Point Drains, which are two tubes coming out from the floor.  There will be one blue one and one red one.  Remove the caps from these low point drains, and that will drain the water from the water lines themselves. HINT: when you open the low point drains, crack open one of the faucets to release the vacuum and the lines will drain faster.

Near your water pump is your water filtration system, remove the jar and dispose of the filter.  Reinstall the filter canister.

When everything is empty, cap off all the lines and close all the faucets.  Please proceed to step two…

Step Two: Change The Flow

There are two sets of valves that you need to be aware of, the hot water bypass valves, and the winterizing valve.

The water heater bypass valves are designed to close off the water heater from the water system, and save you a lot of money in anti-freeze.  They are located behind the water heater (although sometimes they are off to the side of it a little).

There are three of them, one each on the blue and red water lines, and one for the shorter crossing hose.  Turn the two main line valves so that the valve handle runs across the hose, like it is shut off.  Then open the valve on the cross hose.  This will keep anti-freeze out of your water heater, and force the anti freeze up and around to the rest of the water system.

Next to the water filter, you should find the water pump.  There is another valve on one of the hoses that lead from the wall to the pump.  This will divert the suction of the water pump from the fresh water tank to the valve on the outside of the trailer.

Now you are in the right position to finish the job….

Step 3: The Pink Stuff…

You will need about 2 gallons of RV anti-freeze, but having a third as a spare is never a bad idea.  You will also need a 4 or 5 foot length of hose with a male hose connection on it.

Ok, on the outside of your trailer, locate the Anti-freeze siphon valve, it usually is clearly marked.  It looks like a city water connector.  When you find it, hook up the hose to it, and put the other end in a gallon of anti-freeze.  Now go into the trailer and turn on your water pump, it will suck out of the antifreeze gallon directly and build pressure in the water system.

Start at the farthest away faucet from the pump, and open the hot and cold one at a time, and run them until pink is coming out of each.

Do this to each faucet as you work closer to the pump area, don’t forget to flush the toilet until you see pink as well.  Another thing that a lot of people forget is the outside shower.

Once the anti-freeze through everything, go back to the water filter and drain the access anti-freeze out of it and reinstall.

If you have any anti-freeze left over from your second gallon, pour it down the drains to fill the p-traps, and you are done till spring.


Of course, another option is to just call us, and we’ll do it for you…

RV Slide Out Maintenance Video



Most travel trailers and fifth wheels being produced today have some sort of slide out.  Some are small wardrobe-only slide, and some are the “Super Slides” that run a significant length of the side of the trailer.  In all of these cases, some sort of maintenance will be involved.  Here is a short little video about how to maintain and lubricate your slide system.

How To Set Up a Flagstaff Pop Up Camper

I love camping.  I love tent camping, I love camping in 5th wheels, travel trailers, and I can sort of understand camping in a motorhome.  But my absolute favorite way to camp is in a pop-up.  Call it a pup, tent camper, folding trailer or just a suped-up tent on wheels, pop ups are (in my humble opinion) the perfect blend of tent camping with just enough creature comfort to make things practical and easy. I call it “Roughing it in style”.

A lot of people tell me it’s too much work, so I found this video to help dispel that rumor.  It is easier than you might think, and more affordable than most.  So check it out, and if you want to try it, I’ll let you see for yourself in person.

Taking Care of your RV Rubber Roof

Bad Caulking

Bad Caulking.  Bad, bad Caulking.

One of the most common questions I get almost every day, is “how often do I need to re-caulk my roof?”  My answer is almost always the same: If you need to ask, it’s probably time.

Most manufacturers recommend at least checking your roof every three months.  It helps to use a good Rubber Roof Cleaner before doing any good inspection, preferably using a cleaner designed for use on a rubber roof that will add some extra UV protection.  As an added benefit, regular washing of your roof will cut down on black streaks on the sides of the unit saving you time and energy.

When you look at your caulk, you are looking for small cracks, edges that are lifting up a little or areas that have gotten very thin over time.


If you see any of this, then it’s time to peel up the old stuff and run a new bead.  People ask at this point, “Can I just go over the top with new caulk?”, and to that I say, I don’t suggest it.  Old caulk doesn’t adhere to the roof as well as it used to, and if you apply new caulk over it, then the bottom layer is still not sticking well.  Besides, you will use much less caulk if you aren’t trying to cover all the old stuff as well as the seam.  So clean it up the best you can, and start fresh.


Next is choosing the right caulk for the right job.  On the flat surface of your roof, use a self leveling caulk or “Lap Sealant” for this job.  It is liquid enough to actually fill in air gaps and seams in your bead.  It settles to create a uniform thickness.  DO NOT BE AFRAID TO USE A LARGE BEAD!  The trick is to cover the seam, and any screws, and the edge of whatever you are caulking around (TV antenna, refrigerator vent, etc…).  The point is to cover any place water can get in.


No other single maintenance job is quite as important for long-term health of your trailer.  One bad caulk job can cost thousands of dollars to repair, and is many times not covered under insurance.  If you are worried or aren’t sure what you are looking for, call us and we can inspect it for you and give you some suggestions.